The castle wall

Yesterday someone pointed out the walls for my current home project look a lot like castle walls. He was correct. And from certain angles this is especially true:



I expect the project to be completed by the end of next week or the beginning of the following week. When it is done I’ll supply more pictures.


14 thoughts on “The castle wall

  1. If you have some left-over blocks, put on some castellations to make it clearer. Decorative effect, right?

    • There will not be any “left-over blocks”. They are transported by truck and trailer nearly 300 miles round-trip. Some of that is up a steep and twisty hill at 6 MPH. The driver leaves my place about 6:45 AM and returns about 4:00 PM to complete one round trip. She hauls 13 blocks per load.

      Makes some reasonable assumptions and do the arithmetic.

      There are normally blocks much closer but “because COVID” there are local shortages.

      Still, if I had infinite money I might consider it. But, as it is, the humps on top give sufficient hint at castellation to give the desired “decorative effect”.

    • Each block has semi-circular “humps” the upper block(s) has to accommodate. The “hump” is parallel to the main axis. A “normal” block has sort of a groove, parallel to the main axis, on the bottom to accommodate the one block underneath.

      The cutouts are because they are “corner blocks”. The “corner blocks” have to accommodate one block parallel to it and one at right angles to it. The additional “groove”/”cut-out” is to accommodate the block beneath it at right angles to its main axis.

  2. Are you going to wear a tin bucket on your head, affect an ‘outRAGous Frahnch accent’ and start hurling taunting insults to Christen your ‘castle’?

    You can use Gypto’s Trebuchet to hurl a cow (and various other flora and fauna) while you’re at it! 😉

    • Uhhh… I’ve never found Monty Python even the slightest bit funny… So, no.

      Barb and I are thinking we will plant some elderberry trees outside the “castle” walls though. But that is the closest to reference to MP that is likely to happen there on our watch. And that is entirely independent of MP.

  3. I understand that your range is somewhere near where I live. I’m not 100% sure you want the location broadcast, so I’ll leave that out.

    I’m in construction in the business, and I’m aware of what happens to the soils around here when the rainy season starts. You’ve stated that you are planning to cover the entire area with 5/8 or 3/4 minus. I would suggest that small aggregate like that likes to sink into our native clays come mud season, and begin contributing very little to the actual stability of the treading surface.

    To avoid this, I usually put down either road fabric before the aggregate, or put donw 3″ minus and then the cap course of 5/8s minus. Preferably both road fabric, a base course od 3 inch minus, and then the cap course.

    If you do just go with the cap course and nothing else, I’d urge you to not drive anything on it, including even a 4 wheeler, until it sets back up next spring. The first year of stabilization is going to see a lot of gravel loss to just sinking and settling. May save you money and hassle over time to at very least put a road fabric under it.

    • Thanks. I know they planned on 3″ stuff. I will share your suggestions and talk to them about it.

  4. Pingback: Range construction update | The View From North Central Idaho

Comments are closed.